When to use locking carabiners The number of alpine draws you need depends on how wandering the routes are, but 5 to 10 alpines is common. Use the Right Carabiner for the Job. For non-locking types, double-check that the gate is fully closed. 0 x 2. Locking carabiners have a mechanism that prevents the gate from accidentally opening. May 7, 2025 · We've been testing locking carabiners since GearLab's inception in 2010, and in that time, our team of dedicated expert climbers has tested nearly 40 different locking carabiners. Feb 22, 2024 · Belaying with a tube style device – Some climbers and brands, like Petzl, don’t list 2-stage twist lock carabiners under their “recommended” list for a belaying with a tube style device because twist lock’s can open more easily (as the rope possibly runs over the gate) than screw gates or 3-stage auto-locking carabiners. Screw-lock gates require the user to manually screw the sleeve onto the gate to lock it. Autolocking HMS, Full-size screwlock, Mini screwlock, D wiregate, Oval wiregate, and mini D styles. When setting up your rappel device, use a locking carabiner to ensure a safe and smooth descent. Non-Locking Carabiners. Oct 5, 2023 · It is also common to extend gear placements with slings to help the rope run straight, which means using quickdraws, or building alpine draws out of slings and 2 non-locking carabiners. Try to understand the realistic, and not imagined, risks of your methods. This review includes 15 of the best and most popular available today. All of the locking carabiners reviewed here are aluminum construction. Locking carabiners are essential for climbing, canyoneering, and any situation where a reliable connection is crucial. We all get to choose an acceptable level of risk. 2. To use a locking carabiner, first, open the gate by twisting or sliding the lock mechanism. The newer designs are lighter, cheaper, easier to use, and much more accessible to all climbers. Jun 14, 2023 · Trad Climbing: I carry three or four screw-gate locking pear-shaped carabiners for the masterpoints of my anchors, clove hitches, and belaying with a munter hitch. Auto-lock carabiners automatically lock whenever the gate is closed. In situations where a failing carabiner in the safety chain would have serious consequences, they are particularly important. Oct 9, 2019 · When to Use Non-Locking Carabiners. Jun 21, 2023 · Intended Use: belaying and rappelling, anchoring Carabiner Type: locking Gate Type: screw lock Strength Rating: 22 kN, 7 kN, 6kN Gate Clearance: 24 millimeters Weight: 56 g (1. Screwgate: These are the gold standard of locking carabiners Nov 25, 2024 · One scenario where locking carabiners should be used is at the top of a climb where you want to set a top rope. Any time there is a reasonable expectation that your rope may press on the gate from an unexpected direction, that is a reason for locking carabiners. When I am belaying my partners from above, I use a mini D-shaped screwgate carabiner to . While they lack the safety features of locking carabiners, they have their place in various applications: The downside of screwgate carabiners: The gate can sometimes accidentally open when rubbing against a rope or rock. Locking carabiners Locking carabiners do exactly what they say on the tin. They’re available with a range of different locking mechanisms. Remember that while non-locking carabiners are easier to use, they are not as secure as locking carabiners. When using locking carabiners, ensure they are locked properly before putting weight on them. They also don When to Use Locking Carabiners 1. Use non-locking carabiners for pretty much any other application. Instead of using non-locking carabiners that have the potential to open when rubbed against the rock, a locking carabiner will perform better and be more secure. Locking mechanism: Consider whether a non-locking, screw gate, or auto/semi-auto locking carabiner is most appropriate for your situation. 7 in) Mar 13, 2020 · For instance, climbers often double up on locking carabiners when walking on a rope team in mountaineering, as the movement of the rope can untwist a single locking carabiner over time. Remember, these are just a few examples. 5. Anodizing. Locking carabiners, though heavier than nonlocking models, are the only choice for use with a belay/rappel device. Non-locking carabiners are simpler in design, allowing for quick attachment and detachment. Oct 23, 2024 · 3. Locking carabiners should be used at all critical points. You should also use a locking carabiner when attaching a belay device to Jan 14, 2025 · For top rope climbing, it's a generally accepted standard in the guiding and teaching world to use locking carabiners on the anchor and master point. Shape: The shape of the carabiner can affect its strength and functionality. Workers must check that locking carabiners are properly locked with each use. That’s your quick and easy guide to when to use a locking carabiner. Aluminum carabiners come either with a burnished metal finish, or are available with an anodized finish. Always use locking carabiners for belaying, abseiling, roping up on glaciers and at Aug 15, 2019 · Aluminum locking carabiners are lighter, are made in a greater variety of shapes and weights, and are a good choice for the majority of climber's needs. Anytime you need a secure connection point while climbing, consider reaching for a locking carabiner. For added security, especially in climbing or safety-critical applications, use a locking carabiner. Oval carabiners allow Feb 3, 2025 · When using non-locking carabiners, workers should avoid setups in which a rope can cross back and open a gate. Carrying gear, using quickdraws, building alpine draws, and attaching to protection are all circumstances in which a non-locking carabiner is best. Using a Locking Carabiner. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. Belaying: When lead belaying with a Gri Gri, I prefer using a mini auto-lock carabiner. With both straight- and bent-gate carabiners, a protruding nose can catch and open a gate. For Belay. When another is belaying above you, that is even more reason to use locking carabiners, since the consequences of failure are Sep 28, 2023 · Auto-locking carabiner design has seen unprecedented change in the last decade, doubling in the amount of options. Choose carabiners that are specifically designed for the task at hand. Belay from Above. 9 oz) Dimensions: 103 x 69 mm (4. ibkq tmmaeg yzzc msbteq dbgl imlfe onabzr wdgm bdp oir