Offset nuts climbing reddit. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller sizes, and DMM offset nuts. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). 5 to 2 or 3. 5 and 5. Bought offsets cams for the gunks, sold those offsets to someone who doesn't climb at the gunks. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. 5 and 0. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to Jan 6, 2020 路 The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. Jun 19, 2015 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Something like offset or more curved nuts could be useful. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. The feeling you get when an offset sits perfectly- it's so satisfying. When climbing multi pitch routes, you’re definitely going to want a larger selection of widgets. What should I look out for or ask? What percentage of the original price should I look to buy gear at? UPDATE: Thank you for the advice! I bought gently used sets of Black Diamond offset nuts and DMM peenuts from somebody who tried trad a couple times last year and decided it wasn't for them. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Because they theoretically are rated for higher loads than many other cams of the same sizes and everyone has loved they are offset nuts. Trying to master my gear placement though. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Of everything. Very overwhelmed on where to start. I carry offset nuts far more Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. What do i need incams, nuts, carabines, slings and so on. Wich is the best cheap online sites (I can have it picked up in US). I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. Different brands have slightly different characteristics but theyre all just lumps of metal on wire. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. offsets are much more a clean aid climbing thing. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. These will give you a good range of sizes. After that trip I bought a set of DMM Offset nuts and when I returned for some more climbing it was magical. I'd recommend some Offset nuts (e. Alpha Trad draws, Oz on my cams. Double sets of nuts are useful if they are different shapes. They can be quite difficult to remove. If you want two racks of nuts? Do it. However I am curious, and also building my own confidence for taking falls. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. Just regular nuts. This is rock type dependent, and I've found that many crags have irregular rock types without many sections of truly parallel sided cracks. sometimes -say- #6 it's too small, but #7 is too big). Draws, alpine draws, runners and double runners split left and right side in that order. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. This article explains all. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. I built a master list of climbing skills for teaching friends, from single pitch sport climbing, to leading ski trips in complex avalanche terrain and first aid. If you’re the only one with the gear, you’ll quickly find that you want two of each size cam from 0. 5, 0. I like the CTs, but they aren't very versatile and their sizes don't overlap (e. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Offset nuts just help you find those nut placements were you go "oh my lord I can't believe I can get gear here". Unless you know it is the perfect piece, just ask how many free climbers actually use a whole rack of these. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Keeps the design sleek, would recommend DMM offset nuts, or micro brassies for style points Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. The gear was already getting harder to place at this point, the nut passed a few tugs and looked decent, so again, I moved on and kept climbing. I need some recommendation on what to buy an where to buy. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. As small as a . Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. Budget about 1000 usd. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. Totems to black (bd 0. Should I be spending on a . 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. Maybe its just the rock I climb on (granite in washington). 4 and 3. I called it "lucky one" as it usually fits nearly every DMM wallnut, size 3. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. Good price point, reliable, and all your future partners will be familiar with them. :P Looking for some advice for the local trad rack for Ontario limestone single pitch climbing. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). Occasionally some runners over the shoulder. Gates IN. They can be more difficult to clean though. 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. 4 to 3. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. climbing. Nov 23, 2021 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Good luck! Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Outside of offset nuts, diversifying your cams may help. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. 7). TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't After about 5 more feet of climbing, I placed a small offset nut. Every beginner rack needs some things--giant hexes, ancient ball nuts, stupidly small offset micro-stoppers, mega big bros--that you'll never use but will give us an opportunity to make snarky comments. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. Nut-wise, I get more placements out of my offsets than my regular large nuts, but I know it depends on the area. Some places like Yosemite really love offset nuts and smaller cam like a black totem. If you keep climbing you will eventually want smaller cams but wallnuts plus the 3 cams plus offsets is more than adequate and will do nicely at first The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. com you can also add a 10% off your order by adding "10percent" as a code. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. The super light offset especially that thing fits anyway Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. . the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. I myself want to add a set of non offset small stoppers to round out my rack. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • Feb 2, 2024 路 Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. Two reasons. I could see having a double set of nuts giving you more choices for building multi pitch anchor or bailing of a route. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. 75. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. Petzl Attache 3D with BD ATC Guide Alpine, really light Elderid lockers. If you’re climbing 5. And I really love them nuts. If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. BD stoppers and ABC huevos are pretty similar in shape. I'd recommend saving your money as the use will be limited. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. I Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The alloy ones don't go 1 to 10 like wallnuts and rocks, the smallest alloy Offset is at a guess about the size of a #5 rock or wallnut. Thoughts?? For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. Anchor lockers, belay and bail gear behind that and/or on the haul loop as needed. On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or incipient cracks into a reasonable climb. Reply reply Sloppo_Toppo • This is it Reply reply haskie69 • I’d whip on that Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Mandarkar • Nice grogri Reply reply Gold-Log-2011 • Potentially from space Reply reply r/climbing I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. In this video, we look at the benefits of offset nuts, and the pros and cons of softer metals used in some sets. it's dangerous. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. 5-3 right front. awesome thank you, any advice for removing the corrosion? Recomend staying away from the WD40 to prevent cross contamination of your soft gear. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams The black totem cam, pink tricam and blue offset nut have a sort of cult following amongst trad climbers, E1 is just a British trad grade :) Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies I initially got Metolius offsets for aid climbing in the valley, but started bringing them on free climbs. 8mm spans via Trango). Here's what you need to know. As sorta mentioned nuts and stoppers are the same thing. The fixed stem cams probably solid but require better attention to use. 75 (doubles) left front. They sometimes become a favourite piece. Nuts, offset nuts, C4 0. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Pro depends on the route, BD Ultralights, offset nuts, tri-cams, BD screws 10 to 16cm, 1x22cm ultralight for belays and threads. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. 3 and up, and really really love the 0. If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). Well then a set of offset nuts and cams from 0. (and yeah, they are slightly harder to place correctly). Good luck! Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. 2) and below that blue ballnut and brass offset nuts for granite Offset nuts and micro nuts How have you been living with just that old square rack of nuts? Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. Some offset nuts maybe? I use mine loads but I’m climbing a bit harder than you. Would I be better served by doubling up my C4's or buying a set of Master Cam's for climbing in the Valley? FYI DMM offset nuts are 20% off on backcountrgear. Winners have been wild country rockcentric 3 (yellow), wild country superlight offset 6 (red), and a black diamond micro stopper. I find alpine quickdraws really useful. Generally when a guidebook says "a single rack" that is what they mean. From a perspective of WA State climbing, you should be good with what you have at the moment. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? Should I be worried about not having any 5s or 6s? Am I gonna die if I don't have four #1s ;) Thanks to the community for any feedback! Those offset nuts are very handy. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. Most people start with a 1-11 set from a major manufacturer (DMM, BD, WC) then add another 1-8 set from another manufacturer. Is this true in NC?. Other places like the Utah desert almost have no nut placements because the cracks tend to be perfectly parallel. Where do you plan on climbing? This greatly affects your rack. This Im not sure where you are climbing that you need so many cams starting out, but a beginner surely just needs some nuts, hexes, and offsets (in addition to the quickdraws, nut key, etc) to get through all the beginner stuff. 1 cam next? brassies? offset nuts? Ball nuts? If I do go with the . DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. Personally, the DMM offset nuts go up with me on every pitch. I do use offset nuts though and they've saved me a few times but aren't required. You’ve got a good start though!馃槉 Reply reply WeirdoClimbing • Ball Nuts Not a common piece of gear, ball nuts consist of two parts: a grooved chock (similar to a nut), and a sliding wedge that retracts via a trigger. I always rack at least two. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. g. offset nuts however are incredible for free climbing. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Can't go wrong with the classic BD Camelot's. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . I use them all the time now on free climbs anywhere that isn't perfectly parallel cracks they seem to fit. Thanks for the advice and help everyone! Got some nuts and a cam to learn how to make placements from the ground, now I just have to find a mentor! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options [deleted] • DMM nuts 1-11, and a BD C4 #1 I've personally found that normal nuts usually kinda fit in offset placements, but offsets fit terribly in non offset placements. So here's the situation. Ive been climbing a couple of years, mostly sport and bouldering, but sometimes trad with buddies. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I am curious whether basalt climbers like offset or standard nuts more for the rock type. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. For rock Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. 1 is, I wonder about the advice, if I should even bother getting it for free climbing or skip to a ball nut set or passive pro only in the little sizes. Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. I would appreciate hearing personal experiences and 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. There are always people selling id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). 5 to 2 is a great supplement to a friends rack. I currently have a set of C4's, nuts, and a few hex's. In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. What do you guys think? Depends where you'll be climbing. Offset nuts are nice but you can get by quite well without them in most places (I still don't own a set). If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. DMM Offset nuts) to supplement what you currently have, but they aren't necessary. Offset Cams Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. Also you’re gonna want way more alpine draws if you’re doing multi pitch, especially if routes wander. Buying used gear can be a great way to save money. Double cams are nice to have but really depends on where you're climbing. The Hugh Banner offsets strongly resemble DMM's HB Alloy Offset Nuts just without the colored anodizing on the heads. Oct 31, 2024 路 Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). also you need moar. For me, a basic rack is a set of nuts and cams . Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body weight only, likely to hold, will hold; Basically, evaluating past, “do I need to back this piece up?” saps mental energy and Arno Ilgner So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Based on your experience of falling off trad climbs, how often has a piece popped/ripped? This poll is aimed at people who are regularly falling off. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. Farther north, where the major geologic process is Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. Small cams and C4 0. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. Also another reason why DMM offset nuts and peenuts - I can’t even remember the last time I racked up with a regular nut set I love the Z4s a ton, especially in 0. Aug 8, 2022 路 With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. They work fantastically well with climbing in Leavenworth :) buying a whole rack of offsets is pretty ludicrous for free climbing. If you If you have some basic questions on trad climbing it would be a good idea to run through the wiki linked here first. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Plus long runners to extend gear. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. Once you've got a double set down it's time to start investing in offsets, micros and offset micros. com Sep 9, 2010 路 In reply to alan1234: To get a full size range with Offsets you would need the brass ones as well as the alloy ones. 6. Any ball nut tips? It’s the trango number 3 gold one I often buy a single size of pro to test out. I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. They tend to be used more by aid climbers than free climbers, and work in very small placements. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. I am thinking of buying some trad gear online. Would eventually like to try some climbs at Bon Echo as well. They're simply a better option than normal nuts for anything flaring or heavily pebbled/crystalized. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Climber Decks. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. I think to begin you can get away with as little as that but adding the offset nuts makes things nicer. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. 12 votes, 48 comments. . Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. Jul 24, 2025 路 They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. I asked about falls, placements, and how it was stored. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual merits. Reply reply PulpFiction849 • These are not their famous offset nuts. 1 cam what model do you recommend? It depends on where you live. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. egtf jlyrmh zhytxun kfub ojkoy mxe peaunua eyexswv qgot rglbxp