Sling length for anchor reddit 148 votes, 154 comments. I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. . The reasons the Bunny Ears is a good system is that it's efficient and it means that you don't have to carry an extra sling for the anchors. Super bomber (35+ Kn), equalised, and yes is more cumbersome to make. I think the field bag might come with a sling. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. On the up, it can be used to extend. I used to see a lot of rap anchors like this in the Gunks. Jun 29, 2013 · A personal anchor system or PAS is a system that anchors you to the belay and this article focusses on this. Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. If you want distance, you are best served with a longer sling made of light material like paracord. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic equalization. P anchor. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The sling the gave me was made by Breg. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. Extra long extension or anchors. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. 16 votes, 22 comments. Better to have an anchor that's a little big than not have enough material. In contrast, anchors made with slings and cordettes seem to dangle further from the bolts and have more downward force. Pretty light and plenty of length. It's redundant. that study pertains to a load falling on the dyneema sling alone, where the sling needs to act as a shock absorber. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. This means there isn’t much ability for the system to absorb energy and the loads can get high quickly. These anchors looked like there was as much side ways force as downward force on the bolts. It would be a bad idea to fall on one, but you really shouldn't put yourself in that position. you don't need a PAS to anchor yourself to something. How many… The anchors I have seen people built with quickdraws were built with draws with short dogbones (ie what they had). In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. You can easily store this system on your harness. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. But if you're top roping all day on one anchor, the quad is the best option. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. and shorter) are a tweener size that wouldn't be used often; some climbers use them for tying off pitons. 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. Remember that fall factor is a ratio of fall distance vs. The misinformation I was speaking of is the idea that "slipping" off of a belay ledge would break an anchor built with a long dyneema sling. In some situations trying to clean an anchor and retie in with only a quickdraw's length between you and the anchor would be a total pain in the ass. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. LENGTH COLOR This doesn't apply to a top rope anchor set up, which incorporates the climbing rope as a shock absorber. Think of the math behind it pi*diameter gives the circumference. Two more anchor slings on cows tails, with an additional progress adjust that switches between the cows tails anchor points depending on direction of travel. I threaded an anchor into the metal buckle on the sling shoulder strap pad, and another onto the field pouch. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. So I've made several slings with different material. Those carabiners would break first. Pull the sling through your hard points and bring each end together in front of you. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. We have group tested all the current systems (bar one) on the market to see what the advantages and disadvantages are: Using the rope. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. Lengthen the strap and sling the camera from one shoulder to the opposite side (whichever is your strong side). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they The Bunny Ears is best for using with your rope, as it's a great and quick way to use the rope to anchor yourself to two points. Mar 31, 2016 · Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. I would say that 99% of people use slings for their anchors. Reply reply anonymous_commentor This isn't a "you will immediately die" type of thing, and also differs by area you climb in. Texora has ONE specific exception – Compact Slings can be joined together using a Strop Bend (this is NOT approved for Mamba or Wire Slings). -quad length sling. Cleaning: no difference. I figure I would use either the pound-in cable anchors or the auger-style. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. -double length sling. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. The minimum anchor diameter for Wire Slings is 12 mm or ½ in. You need a triple-length Dyneema sling rather than the double you are using. The length of tethers varies. Texora allows girth hitching slings around anchors (choker) per the product manual. Oct 29, 2023 · Length: I would go with 240cm sling or cord. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. In a top rope set up, the sling transfers the load to the anchor point, while the rope absorbs the shock. The ideal is really more about what you are working to accomplish. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. You don't have to fall fifty feet Moved Permanently. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. Tie a fig 8 loop on a bight so that you have two long tails. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. Posted by u/smallpickup - 1 vote and 9 comments 1. Ease of use*** Twisting can also happen if you are using twisted cordage (like sisal) as there is a preferential twist direction. I have been doing this with a total of 4 slings (2 and 2 with a biner on each extended sling). Unfortunately, it didn’t stay on my chest, but rather slid down to the low point. I was planning on using a 240cm sling and making an equalete or S. They instead recommend using a 20' length of cordelete. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Peak Design is the answer. You’ll need four locking carabiners and a double-length sling (48”). One short one for a 3rd hand when rappelling and a long length doubled around my waist as a chalk bag belt. We are using a progress adjust with an anchor sling for positioning. For trees close to the edge, you can use a couple of slings. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. Regardless of the few extra seconds it takes. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. 1. Though that meant he would have had to shorten the sling, which is possible but a little tricky. If you use static line for your anchor, you can slip a length of 1" tubular webbing over the line for an edge protector. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Agreed on weight, though. What I learned today. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a minute. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. I use both. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Nwslackline. A master point on two equal length slings will do nothing but add a knot, which would be the weakest point; if one sling yeah knot it to make multiple points sure, but for this it is an extra step that would only slightly weaken the anchor. Two lengths (3-4 feet) of webbing works well. The PAS is a little more versatile in that the length is so much easier to get right. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. Set up rap, clip end back to belay loop, get to next anchor, clip back to anchor. Because no matter what you’re using, the amount of material in the system is usually quite short. So, the benefit of a rabbit runner is more flexibility. w. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. It's no longer suggested to have a third hand off a leg loop, so you really want to have an extended rappel, no nicer system than the humble Apr 11, 2023 · A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. A. See full list on outdoorgearlab. If you're going to use a sling, sure, you can use the Bunny Ears knot. The home of Climbing on reddit. I had a 13 anchor labrum repair, single anchor bicep tenodesis, and supraspinatus debriding (20% tear). 17 - 18cm slings: These medium-length slings are useful for reducing rope drag, especially when the route is more than 12 quickdraws long or if the rope is not traveling in a straight path. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. for a casual multipitch day i carry: -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Illustration by Chris Philpot The Gear. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Fewer pieces means fewer pieces to mess up. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. Some thoughts… • The rock on the right looks like it might crumble. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. I’d look for a better placement especially for the blue cam. Both the tech pouch and the field pouch come with mount points to be used as a sling. With that in mind, a lighter sling tends to need a projectile with more weight in order to get good swing and distance. The camera won't fall forward when you bend over nearly as much as around the neck config. I usually start with the knotted sling for one safety and then use the PAS to adjust to the right length for the other (in a two safety situation). For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. 5 meter rope tether. That is why the loose fiber version of the balearic sling works so well, is that you are twisting each strand back and forth with every pass over the sling, so the twist removes itself. Does anyone here have any experience with either of these? 10 - 12cm slings: These short-length slings work in most situations when the route is relatively straight. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Mar 3, 2025 · The quad also works well on multi-piece gear anchors, though it requires more consideration. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. Agreed. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. Metal on metal is NOT a problem to worry about too much. Do Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Use one tail [the shorter one] with a Munter or rap device and/or friction knot on your harness to protect yourself as you head towards the edge. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 20ft 6mm cord for rock anchors (will be upgrading to 7mm for added strength and durability) 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) No need to equalise two bolts perfectly, I leave that for gear anchors where I use the Equalette-3. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). I'm going to take a top rope anchor class this weekend @ the Gunks. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. This changed a few years ago when some enterprising product designer came up with the idea of a variable-length personal anchor system. 6 Those are just slings "girth hitched" around the tree. Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. Don't over-engineer it, on toprope you won't put a lot of stress on an anchor as you'll just be dangling or falling 1-2 m into a lot of rope. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Just don't load them dynamically. And yes we are scared of falling. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. The fact is that a heavy weight taking factor 2 fall directly onto a single dyneema sling may break the sling Building a 5 point anchor with bomber cam placements is no more difficult, cumbersome or inefficient then a three point anchor, granted you have enough cord or sling length to do so. Use the other longer tail to build your anchor as I I agree with you that cord is the superior material for anchor building. Or you could just have a doubled runner, rap device in the middle on an overhand on a bight, clip the end to the anchor. Its blend of fibers, many length and width choices, and ease of untying knots all set it apart from its competitors, and are all reasons why we choose to recommend it. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. 7 It's non-standard but, coming from an industrial background, I would trust it. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. All that being said, since many people use cord to resling their old nuts, cams, hexes I would do some research, but you will be fine. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Building a 5 point anchor with bomber cam placements is no more difficult, cumbersome or inefficient then a three point anchor, granted you have enough cord or sling length to do so. I'm beginning to think that even draws are unecessary. I personally use 1. Dynema is amazing. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. I did not require a pillow with my sling, just the sling. Two per line-end with a sling system between them to mount the end of the line to. It looks like a lifting sling for heavy machinery. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Shorter slings (30cm/12 in. Estimate how much static line you'll need. There is really no reason to use the rope for your anchor because if you set your anchor up correctly with a sling it will be 100% perfectly safe. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. They did cover all materials (draws, slings) and a few different types of anchors (fixed position, 3 piece anchors, natural anchors). A knot in a sling weakens it anywhere from 40 to 60%. Length. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. My question is this: some of the trees are father back from the ledge, is it safe to girth hitch 5 or 6 slings together to increase the length of the anchor to avoid rope drag? Or is girth hitching slings together unsafe for some reason? Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. They are also light for alpine stuff. M. 2) the sling was originally racked with 2 biners, and he clipped it onto the cam, then took the extra carabiner as he may have been short and thought he’d need it for the anchor. I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. The more of a crack climb it is, the less extension you need as you can just clip straight into the cams. Probably several tons. ) are good for looping large rocks and for connecting three protection points to make an anchor. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. 3) some people will rack multiple cams on one biner. Seems like those would be awfully short if I go w/ "basket" w/ another wrap around a 1' dia. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. Clip the Fig 8 loop to the tree anchor. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. -Prussik cord with a locker. I was thinking that after the class, I'll do some top roping on my own. This can be hard on you, the climber, and on the anchor. Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails? Clearly here, the whole anchor is so fucking shit that the way the carabiners are facing is the least of my concern. But when you're only making one or two anchors a day it doesn't matter to spend 3 minutes more to Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Thank you so much! I’ll leave this as is and maybe look into getting a shorter cordolette or a sling. I attached the field pouch to the sling by sliding it on the strap. I have seen a few options for ground anchors. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. Gear placement is mostly for worst case scenarios, if it requires you can do shorter quick pitches, slinging a rock, belay your parnter up the crux with a munter and keep moving. As others have said. For example, specialty tethers like the Petzl Connect Adjust or Metolius Personal Anchor System come in at about 38 inches (around 95 centimeters). See "Doubled Sling with Master Point" on page 8 here (pdf warning): IF you climb above your anchor while attached to the anchor via your PAS and you fall, that is a fall factor greater than 1, possibly up to 2, depending on how far above the anchor you climb relative to the length of your PAS. I am interested in building some permanent anchors in my back yard to practice on. Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. Don’t fall onto your personal anchor system. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. If you need to connect and equalize your tether to two bolt anchors that are not chained together, then I suggest either going with a PAS that has three locking carabiners on it, or two 60cm slings girth hitched into your harness with each one having a locking carabiner on it. This setup worked well for single pitch sport Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope. Moved Permanently. It's much safer imo. Both bags can be used with a Peak Design camera strap as a small sling bag. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I think I use around a 60cm sling which works out well. Wider slings (3/4” or 1”) are generally more durable. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. We each carried one of these and also used them for all of our anchor building (natural anchors usually). 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. For those interested: For _fixed_ top anchors, different types of metal will, over time, erode the anchor and cause it to break whilst it looks 100% fine. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. Basket hitch the combined slings around the tree, bring the ends together and tie an overhand loop. Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. rope (or sling) in service. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Apr 12, 2019 · The Metolius Open Loop Sling is our Top Pick for Anchor Building, and is also an economical choice for use as a traditional lead sling in the double-length as well. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. Strop hitch instead of girth hitch to get the length you need. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use i use dyneema slings for anchors as they are way lighter and less bulky than cord. A longer Prusik sling can come in handy in self rescue: tying load release knots, cut up for rap tat, etc. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Learn how to extend the anchor over the edge so your rope hangs free. I have the everyday sling 10l and a field pouch. The results were quite shocking to me. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. For bolted anchors, for a while I've been using a cordelette or double length sling tied as a quad or equalette, which is generally overkill, but can be useful on hanging belays. I recommend getting a PolarCare ice machine for the post operation. three point anchor and I'd go with cordellette or long sling, complex trad anchor, cordellette, same leader, cordellette/sling. Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. But yeah, everything depends on the situation of course. tree and would triload biners? Skip the wrap or get longer slings? That will do the majority of trees for you. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. i use this one as a “normal” 2 or 3 piece anchor The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. So officially they are following SERENE with this 5 point anchor, even though those extra two points are overkill in most situation. I bought 2 d shaped lockers for the bolts and 2 hms lockers for the rope side. At certain points in the broader activity of climbing, you have to secure yourself to an anchor without the use of the rope, and up until recently that meant using a 60 cm nylon sling girth-hitched to your harness. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. So I love take photos but I often find the weight of the camera to be too much weight to carry around my neck for too long… I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. These are identical to a normal sling in strength and weight. Just don't seal the ends of the webbing when you cut it. nice simple two bolt anchor with switching leads, sub 5s clove hitch anchor. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. All these anchor systems rely on the belay being built with an equaliser and power loop. I have a double length shoulder sling with lockers that I use as a PAS, long draw or anchor material depending on the situation, but being direct on a single quickdraw wouldn't worry me at all seeing as there's always the rope as a backup, in a highly unlikely worst case scenario where the bolt or draw fails on your bodyweight you fall a few It depends a lot on the particulars of the climb, the bolts and everything, but honestly, two draws is probably fine and even safer. I was in my sling for 7. I use the sliding-x with limiters for my top rope anchor, and I see a few benefits over the other options: given the same sling/cordellette length, it's twice as long as the quad, alleviate rope drag and crossing over ledges the twist makes it more redundant than a pure equalette, almost as much as a quad We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. What you're doing is fine. How to Build Your Quad. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. 5 weeks but 6-8 is average. • the blue cam should be inline with the direction of force or it may rotate and move out of position. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Jul 10, 2023 · 2. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. The document has moved here. What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. Given the fact that the trees are solid and not just spindly bushes or already on the verge of dropping over, a sling around one stem and a locking carabiner should be all you need, make sure your rope does not drag over sharp edges. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). It is faster, perfectly safe, easy, and allows you to do full rope length pitches. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. com Extra-long slings (180-240cm/72-96 in. Doubling it up would make it too short. Completely agree with this. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. huasnx pfml zife bkkghc ynrkiiv rezjzb gzcoux lsc hymx fnlzbwv