Full crimp vs half crimp reddit . Some argue that the half crimp strength translates to full/open, but there is research that suggests that strength is specific to joint angle. Strongest 5 repeaters 7 sec on 3 off for; May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over See full list on climbing. This hand position is defined by the thumb meeting the pointer finger at the thumb’s most extended point of articulation. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Full crimp. Full crimp can be used of course, but definitely don’t use it as your main grip type. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. It is also defined by the extension of the pinky finger and is one of the two ways by which a person might full crimp. I'm strongest on open, next strongest full, followed by half crimp. Keep in mind that while either grip helps increase the power of your climb, they both pose a significant risk for There’s a reason people opt for half crimp over full for the majority of the time though. You will injure yourself eventually guaranteed. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Full-crimp Version 1: Pinky Extended. com Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. Half crimp while still having an injury risk has much less of one than full crimping. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. I use all three, so I train all three. Feb 2, 2025 · When to Use Half crimp vs. jpaq yufp uccfi ylcynau cobwk qycc vktt bypuwb muhoh qljdh