Black diamond daisy chain failure reddit Daisy chains and runners don't stretch much, which means they don't absorb much energy. Sep 8, 2010 · Black Diamond put out an excellent post yesterday regarding the dangers of using daisy chains for anything other than aid climbing. You should NEVER be impact loading a daisy chain. Following is a short video by Black Diamond on daisy chain failures: There is another alternative to the daisy chain. NEVER. The PAS (Personal Anchor System) is a series of independent loops that are sewn together in a chain. If you use a daisy chain to anchor yourself to a belay, you've now taken the rope out of the equation and are potentially subjecting yourself and the daisy chain to a possible shock-loading scenario. In fact in some pull test i recently saw they showed that the grivel daisy even failed in a factor 1 fall. . The daisy chain on the other hand was able to absorbed some of the impact force because the webbing on the individual loops ripped, and stayed intact (no catastrophic failure) in the f1 fall. Or second, it is possible to use two carabiners. The author, BD’s quality control guru, stated how he constantly sees people using them for both cleaning anchors and anchoring in on multipitch routes, which are functions they are not designed for. The Quality Control Lab at Black Diamond examines the previous testing and commentary on daisy chains used incorrectly. First, the bestcase scenario for a climber dynamically loading a daisy chain is a perilously harsh impact that could break the daisy May 12, 2009 · First, you can put a twist in the end of the daisy so that it cannot fail. Jun 27, 2011 · Video by Black Diamond - These are aid climbers’ tools, used to link one’s harness to aiders or ascenders, but they’re commonly and improperly used as personal anchor tethers. Tood Skinner's accident that u/SmallVillage linked to occurred while big wall climbing with multiple devices tied into it, and the best guess is that it was worn down by a daisy chain girth-hitched into the loop, which got weighted and unweighted hundreds of times a day at exactly the same spot. Daisy chains should not be used as anchoring systems, for two important reasons. tat gxyv ctvwy fagom vioh pstzhl lqpsq jwydyj adyve xra